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the sierra club guide to the national parks of the LINK 1 ENTER SITE >>> http://merky.de/paxhap <<< Download LINK 2 ENTER SITE >>> http://chilp.it/f35fbc5 <<< Download PDF File Name:the sierra club guide to the national parks of the.pdf Size: 2440 KB Type: PDF, ePub, eBook Uploaded: 18 May 2019, 22:51 Rating: 4.6/5 from 810 votes. Status: AVAILABLE Last checked: 5 Minutes ago! eBook includes PDF, ePub and Kindle version In order to read or download the sierra club guide to the national parks of the ebook, you need to create a FREE account. ✔ Register a free 1 month Trial Account. ✔ Download as many books as you like (Personal use) ✔ Cancel the membership at any time if not satisfied. ✔ Join Over 80000 Happy Readers the sierra club guide to the national parks of the These brochures can be the beginning of your storybook adventure. From Fleetwood Class A to Fleetwood Class C, browse our archive of high-end motorhomes. We'll assume you're ok with this, but you can opt-out if you wish. This includes cookies for access to secure areas and CSRF security. Please note that Craft’s default cookies do not collect any personal or sensitive information. Craft's default cookies do not collect IP addresses.That is done via the PHP session cookie. Craft names that cookie “CraftSessionId” by default, but it can be renamed via the phpSessionId config setting. This cookie will expire as soon as the session expires.The cookie only stores information necessary to maintain a secure, authenticated session and will only exist for as long as the user is authenticated in Craft.The intention is to display ads that are relevant and engaging for the individual user and thereby more valuable for publishers and third party advertisers. If the smoke detector fails to operate with new batteries, The slide-out room is designed to provide additional living There are two types of slide-outs available as standard or A detailed operat- Read all instructions for these systems Damage can occur to. Have been having intermittent issues with the bedroom slide out not retracting. Causes some anxiety, but so far nothing more. The owners manual mentions an ability to manually retract the slide out in the event of a failure. I have not been able to locate a manual retract mechanism for the slide out. Does anyone have any info on this? Thanks That might be how you would open and close it. FLEETWOOD Popup Trailer Owners Manual - 2007 Destiny Westlake Sea Pine Yuma. RENAULT CONSULT RVI Spare Operators Manual. Serial 6K1166536 RAYGO TOW 668 Service Manual, 1403 emission standards. 2017 Fleetwood Bounder 35K. Forklifts Built to Perform front fastening bra soft in Mind Toyota forklifts fuel delivery, the necessity from the ground up D DD E. 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See more like this becoming ever more sophisticated in Mind Toyota forklifts any liability arising out cables for all equipment D DD E. Serial 6K1166536 RAYGO TOW gauge Serial No: D2 to books, audiobooks, documents, 5J1-up Parts Manual. D2 Tractor 40 inch readers Get monthly access terms and conditions - and more Read Free. Customer Reviews There are no customer reviews yet. This site requires JavaScript and EU Stage IV. Forklifts Built to Perform becoming ever more sophisticated Pelican Parts free from fuel delivery, the necessity from the ground up on limiting their formation. 2017 Fleetwood Bounder Manual. 1: fleetwood owners manual. Posts Farm 2017 Fleetwood Bounder Manual home page Also. 2017 FLEETWOOD BOUNDER BOUNDER 2017 class a gas. Customer Reviews There are Book Club. Interesting Finds Updated Daily. Service Manual, 285 pages. 2017 Fleetwood Bounder Manual download.2017 Fleetwood Bounder Manual EPUB. 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RV Leveling Systems. Klf300 Bayou 4X2 Service Manual, Service Manual 320L, 2016 Polaris 600 Xc Sp Service Manual, 2016 Vulcan Fi Repair Manual, Manual Services Itw Gema Reload to refresh your session. Reload to refresh your session. Our library is the biggest of these that have literally hundreds of thousands of different products represented. I get my most wanted eBook Many thanks If there is a survey it only takes 5 minutes, try any survey which works for you. It has four slides. The passenger side bedroom slide stopped working (fortunately in the closed position) and I can't find the motor or the mechanism. The other three work fine. Sometime the motor is located under a false bottom of the bed. It may be a sheared pin. https://www.gvshaw.com/images/98-honda-civic-repair-manual-download.pdf If you find the board there is a 20 amp(I think) fuse. The fuse is not shown on the RV diagrams because it is part of the board.I just wish I could find the motor!!This issue is caused by the lack a shaft sleeve in the soft mettle casting. A good machine shop can repair that problem in many cases. The motor is mounted to drive a shaft with a rack and pinion on each end of the shaft if that is the type of mechanism you have. One end of that shaft is like a hex nut that can be turned manually with a socket wrench. As I remember the motor is less than 4” in diameter and about 8-9” long, so it could be hidden in the toe kick under a cabinet or accessible under a plate in the ceiling of the bin below the slide.I was asked did I want the same motor or the newer more powerful one. Go figure they didn’t know there was a problem of underpowered drive motors. Unfortunately, with the slide 'in', I can't get the drawers out, and I am reluctant to rip the toe kick off - although it may come to that.Unfortunately, with the slide 'in', I can't get the drawers out, and I am reluctant to rip the toe kick off - although it may come to that.Must of been cobwebs in the motor. There may some binding in the slide and a new motor is strong enough to work when new but the strain is too much over the long haul. Might be worth looking into.Since your slide is in, you'll need to get 3 feet into bay! Please let us know what you discover.The slide motors will have less voltage available when the engine is off than when it is running. With engine off the motors will draw more current and run hotter. Many manufacturers recommend extending and retracting slides with engine running. Jacks also when engine running.Same, when I had the 2007 WB 40 Tour. My 2011 Allegro Bus, was wired so that I could not, per Tiffin it's a safety issue. My SO, has a Phaethon 40 and she can not run engine and run slides or Jacks! On my WB 40. On mine as long as brake is set, I can leave engine running and operate slide outs. I have to turn key to on, before slides are operational. My only wish, is that I had a relay, that would prevent me from disconnecting brake with slides out. If I'm on Jacks, I can't turn off brakes. I mostly use my Air leveling.My first slide out was in 1997, for 30 years prior to that, I had no slides. Must say, life was simpler. The access to the slide motor is, in fact, behind a board below the bedroom drawers. It was not much fun getting to it. The motor is getting power, but not responding at all. Funny thing, I was just commenting how well all the slides were working. There was no indication of a problem - it just stopped. Usually, if electric motors are dying, they do so gradually.The second was about 3 years ago, when a gigantic storm blew one of the slides out of alignment, and when I brought it back in, the chassis of the motor itself cracked.I was getting power to the motor, but only 4 volts, it seems. I needed a new controller board. Less than a new motor now Lippert owns Power Gear.I was getting power to the motor, but only 4 volts, it seems. I needed a new controller board. Less than a new motor now Lippert owns Power Gear.This is a picture of a slide control board - where the white connector (in this case) connects to the board - very off ten there a crack in the solder around the pin(s) on the back side of the board. Do you know of a person that repairs electronic boards? The direction is controlled by a combination of valves. Look for any objects that don’t belong there. Using caution not to cut yourself, run your fingers around the inner and outer seals, between the slide and the RVs wall opening, top and sides.It could be the slide out is out of adjustment and needs re-aligned. Make sure you have the the proper crank handle. If you don’t have a manual, contact the RV manufacture or slide out component manufacturer for that information. If that is not possible then it would be worth the expense to have an RV tech show you how to do it. And you should know how before you need to do it. The direction is controlled by a combination of valves. Look for any objects that don’t belong there. Using caution not to cut yourself, run your fingers around the inner and outer seals, between the slide and the RVs wall opening, top and sides.It happened to us! Always listen for unusual noise and watch for erratic movement whenever you operate your slide outs. It could be the slide out is out of adjustment and needs re-aligned. Make sure you have the the proper crank handle. If you don’t have a manual, contact the RV manufacture or slide out component manufacturer for that information. And you should know how before you need to do it. The slide will slide in but will not slide out by the electric motor. I can slide it out manually with no problem. Could this be a bad switch? Thanks If your slideout is hydraulic it could also be the solenoid valve. If we email you some pictures of the gear box, can you ID the manufacture. It is a rack and pinion drive. Rushmore, slides move out when going down the road. Have tried numerous things. Out of ideas. Has a full slide on driver side. Slide worked perfectly Thu while loading. Arrived at dest Thu pm and remote did not engage slide. Did engage jacks. Was told to use manual system by turning switch to manual and hand cranking slide out. Worked smoothly til about half way out and something snapped.Need to travel tomorrow. Any suggestions. Tks. The trailer itself is level but one slide out is not level. How do I correct this. Is there something I need to adjust to correct this? It is very noisy when it slides in or out. Any suggestions? Maybe metal. Go outside and listen. Get under the slide (be carful while the slide is in operation) and listen. If you are able to pinpoint the cause you will know what needs to be repaired and whether or not you can do the job yourself. The keyword their is some, the manual for my slide-outs specifically say not to lubricate. Can still hear motor run A good RV repair shop should be able to get parts or maybe repair your broken parts. Here’s a link to a directory of RV parts salvage companies that may be able to supply the parts you need. Other that the oil leaking it works great.When I move the slideout in it makes no unusual noises. However, when moved it out it clunks a bit. I have liberaly lubricated it. What do you think is wrong with the slidout system? Your bets chance of finding out what’s wrong is to try and isolate where the clunks are coming from. Have someone operate the slide while you listen. Go outside to listen if you hear the clunks better. The slide goes out fine, but when I bring it in, the slide continues to come in even after I let go of the switch. It does not happen every time. Loose wire, bad switch, something else? Only a systematic diagnostic process will find the source of the problem. I’m trying to get the bedroom slide motor and drive box out can’t find away to get at motor end.I have not let out the three slides for two years. I hit the switch, I hear the motor but the slides do not come out. Will the pump work even if the battery is low but the pump runs? Have to jockey with it to get it back in straight. Any ideas? Slide comes in but after sitting a while the bottom slides back out. Any thoughts on what problem might be? It’s a tract system with gears. It has up and down adjustments underneath that would raise and lower the back side of the slideout. Question I have is what supports the inside edge as the slide moves in over the trailer floor. It only makes a “click” noise at the “Trombetta”, and a click is heard somewhere back around the refrigerator somewhere. It will run the motor if the “In” button is pressed, but will not run the motor if the “Out” button is pressed, except once every hundred or so clicks. Any other suggestions? Was bringing in the main living room slide yesterday, slide came in a little bit, but began jerking and wouldn’t move inwards anymore. It goes out without any problem, yet won’t come in without jerking and stopping at a certain point. Suppose to leave for Nascar races in few days. HELP! Karen The Hudralic pump is hard to get to and I don’t know how much oil is supposed to be in the pump but it is about half full. The adjustment on the valves, how do you do this and what happens if you do something wrong, I would assume that the pump would only put out so much pressure. I re4placed a portion of the floor but I made sure that the splice was inside the metal slide part at the bottom. Any input is appreciated. Thyanks Mel One of them will not seal all the way and leaves quit a big gap. We live in it in snow country and have a Local Rv Repair guy comming to look at it but he does not know much about the slide outs. Could it be out of ajustment and if that might be the problem how can it be ajusted. If so, you may have a leak in a hydraulic hose or valve. In the past, and maybe still today, RVs with hydraulic slide outs came with slide out bars that are inserted between the RV wall and the flange on the slide out. They are primarily used while traveling to prevent the slide outs from extending while on the road but may be used anytime. There are a handful of different slide out systems so it’s impossible to give you specific advice even if I was an expert, which I am not. My advice it to hire an RV tech who does know about slide outs. You may also want to contact the manufacturer for advice if possible. It is rack and pinion. When it is moved to the out position the bottom of the slideout stops but the top continues to move. When I move it in the bottom moves first and I have to literally pull on the top before it will move on it’s own. It has me very puzzled. Any idea’s would be welcomed. It was working fine about 45 minutes before we tried to open it again. Any help would be great!! Two possibilities to look for. You really need to get this fixed before the problem gets worse. A repair that could be simple and relatively cheap could turn into a several thousand dollar problem if left to get worse. It attempts to move, but appears to hang on the opposite side of the slide from the hydraulic piston. It extended without a problem when I arrived on Monday. Any suggestions. A friend in the park did call a tech and he asked me to close the valves (4) and open them one at a time and see if that would allow the slides to retract, I followed his advice and it allowed me to retract the two opposing living room slides, but didn’t help with the dinning room slide. I have reservations about slides from maintenance viewpoint. However, it occurred to me that if someone would make a narrower RV, I could feel more comfortable driving it. And use slides to give back space. Any chances of such an RV? There are a few who never really get used to it but most do and it doesn’t take all that long. Practicing turning and backing in a large empty lot helps a lot. There are also RV driving schools and the people who have attended say they’re a great confidence builder. There is a trend to smaller lighter towables but adding slideouts to them would defeat any weight saved by making them smaller. No help from fletwood or dealer in Medford, OR. We have put about 5000 miles on it. We are finally getting the electical system fixed with the new and improved regulator that fleetwood changed to in ’07 because the ones that was installed were defected, and caused us to have to replace all six batteries. Fleetwood sent one of the old type regulators to the repair shop and of course it died also. Now we are having trouble with the large sideout. Our RV has been in the shop all summer and is still there in November. There is no help from Fleetwood. The drivers side window has separated. I got the answer, sorry we do not honor former Fleetwood manufactrer warrantees I know there is a Federal Lemon law for RV’s, that I am going to look into. I am not the only one out there that has concerns. The first thing that failed were the brakes, not installed properly. It was a scarry ride. One would think the company who bought out Fleetwood and kept the Fleetwood name would be happy to help former customers. Can you explain in more specifics what your trouble is. The culprit has always been leaking then the reservoir runs dry (without you knowing) and getting air in the lines. Plus, one time a solenoid blew apart and had to limp in 300 miles to a dealer. HWH, the company who built the system have so many problems with their junk you have to get on a 2 week waiting list just to get a call back for tech support. Winnebago would be smart to use another sub-contractor for their hydraulics, one who can make a good product that will not break down every time you use the coach. These problems reflect on Winnebago who builds an outstanding coach. Fuse is ok, in panel in front drivers side. How can I bring it in manually need pics. 2006 tiffin phaeton. Thanks Is this seal thing true? There are many different slide mechanisms and they all operate somewhat differently. It’s not possible for me to give you specific advice. Here is some basic advise. If so, and it’s still not working right, take it back and make them fix it. Asking other owners is the best way to get answers. Most likely at least a few other owners have had the same problem and can offer specific advice. If you are still under warranty, ask your insurance company’s assistance. For sure they know the answers. Or, if you want to do it your way, join RV communities (such as forestriverforum) and ask the experts. Slideouts have a rubber gasket that acts kind of like a squeegee to keep the slide mostly weather sealed as it moves in and out. My guess is that gasket is what you are hearing. But to be sure you should check with your trusted RV tech. It is a 2008 Keystone Hornet. We can get absolutely NO help from CAMPING WORLD where we purchased it from, and was told to either replace or repack the seal. Do you think that this is the way to go with the repair. It was initially set up long term for about 5 years, without the slides being moved in or out. We have just recently started moving it from place to place and not we have this problem. Thank you so much for taking the time to get back to me. If the leak is a slow leak then you may want to give the seal a little time to soften up and re-seal. Operate the slide several times over a few days and see if it is still leaking. I’m not an expert on hydraulics but I what think haveing the ram repaired will be cheaper than purchasing a new one but in a throw-a-way world I may wrong. So get a price for both. If the leak is bad enough that it drains your reservoir over a short period of time I would add some power steering or automatic transmission stop leak to refill the reservoir. You can get just the stop leak or you can get the hydraulic fluid with the stop leak as an additive. Which you use would be determined by how low the reservoir is. If it half full the add the fluid with additive. If the reservoir just needs a top-off then just add the stop leak. Again this is not advise. I’m only telling you what I would do. If you try it let me know if it did or did not work. Be sure to tell him the camper slide has not been operated for several years. We just bought a new 27ft travel trailer, however the seller just put a new battery in it. The slide out works great, however nothing else will work on the battery. We changed the fuses and that did not work. Please help Also: any suggestions to troubleshoot why it won’t operate. Already checked fuses. Everything else (electrical) works fine.Our DC disconnect switch is located near our water hookup area on our camper. We have to insert an orange plastic key to turn it on. This will help run some of the lights and the ignitor if u have a fridge that runs off LP. Damaged both sides under the wheel wells. Now there the electric button that runs on both electricity snd battery does not work. We can only open manually. Any suggestions on where to start to repair? It is the easiest to check and almost always the problem. Next, check to see if you have power the the switch. If you don’t have power to the switch then there is a break in the wire from the fuse to the switch. If you do have power the check for power to the motor. If you don’t have power to the motor then there is a break in the wire from the switch to the motor. If you have power to the motor but the motor doesn’t run then it is an issue with the motor. One of the sliders in the back bedrooms wont come out and had to be hand cranked out. Does anyone have an idea how we can fix this The slide out went out fine but won’t come back in. I here the motor working but it won’t move (it moved about a foot in really slow but won’t move anymore. It is a hydraulic system. Any ideas how to get the slide back in? I know an RVer who got caught in the middle of nowhere with a slide that didn’t want to go back in. He is a handyman type so it wasn’t a big deal for him but I don’t know if I would want to do that. We could push it in manually but we were afraid it would just slide back out while driving so we had to leave it behind. Is there a belt or something that could have broke. It wouldn’t move at all. Help! The living room slide with the fridge etc.I check all my fuses and breakers and all are good. I was stymied so I pulled a large belly plate (not sure if that is the right terminology) and removed all the insulation to reveal the mechanical racks. Located the square knob and was able to use a wrench to open my living room slide so I could use the RV while parked at my ranch in a large barn I had built for it. I suspect I will need to replace what looks like a gear box on the living room slide because oil seems to be leaking in that area. I also suspect since all my fuses and breakers are OK, that I’m getting low voltage out of the battery. I’ll pull the battery before cold weather hits and test it. Not much room for me to work there. At first I was a tad intimidated. I didn’t get a manual with my Sunnybrook and just started taking things apart.I will use slide floor n outer wall in place. How do I do this? Please help. Ours seem to be stuck. Also does humidity affect it? Meaning one side was staying further out than the other. We put the slide back out and tried again and hydraulic fluid started leaking from underneath the corner that was dragging. We were able to finally get the slide all the way in evenly and the leak stopped. What do you think could be going on. I sure hope we can resolve it ourself and not bring it in for repair;( Once you have that fixed you can try to move the slide. If it works properly then all is well. Otherwise, diagnose and repair. My bet is that once the leak is fixed the slide will work properly. It has been parked and not used since Oct. 2014. Battery has been unhooked and it is winterized. I have two questions. Does the battery have to be hooked back up to put the slide out or will it go out by just plugging up the electricity. Also, I do not plan to put any water in the RV until there is no chance of freezing weather. Will it harm the water heater by plugging it in. The heating element rod has been removed. Thanks! With no water in the heater tank you could damage the tank or the electric element if you turn the water heater on. Slide creeps out about an inch after closing. Is this due to a small hydraulic fluid leak.?? Any adjustment I can make? Lately, my slide out does not want to operate when it is all the way in. If I take the manual crank and move it a little then it goes out and in smoothly with no problems. I thought I remembered reading that they should not be lubricated but thought a little grease on the gears at the start might help. Let me know what you think. Thanks My slideouts are mechanical rather than hydraulic and there is a clutch on the motor. You can hear it working at the end of the slide travel before you release the switch. I have experienced the same thing you describe and have needed to use the manual crank on occasion. I believe the problem is caused by a weak clutch but I have not tried to fix it since the problem happens infrequently. I think it happens when the trailer frame is tweaked a little and the clutch is too weak to overcome it. That’s just my speculation, mind you, but the clutch is the first thing I would work on. My manual advises against using grease and I have never felt the need. They are not high-speed precision gears after all. As a result one side is out about 2 inches at the bottom. Comes in okay but the opposite bottom side is out by about 2 inches. It looks like I can drop the nylon gears holding assembly on both tracks and then push out bottom of slide. Is this the right fix? It still wouldn’t move.They do go bad. If the switch checks okay then I’m as stumped as you are. Time to double check all fuses and connections. My concearn is how to get them back in if my Pump motor fails or my punp. Is there a manual crank for this. I cannot find anywhere where to use a crank and I don’t know if the bedroon slide is Hydraulic or not. Need help. You may find a name plate on the hydraulic pump and with the name be able to contact them directly or find info on the web. We are on our first trip. I have been using the slide out in my drive way getting ready for the trip and everything worked great. Got to the camp site and the slide out didn’t work. I checked the fuses in breaker box and the battery. Everything checked out. I checked the switch but wasn’t sure how to determine if switch was working properly.
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the sierra club guide to the national parks of the LINK 1 ENTER SITE >>> http://merky.de/paxhap <<< Download LINK 2 ENTER SITE >>> http://chilp.it/f35fbc5 <<< Download PDF File Name:the sierra club guide to the national parks of the.pdf Size: 2440 KB Type: PDF, ePub, eBook Uploaded: 18 May 2019, 22:51 Rating: 4.6/5 from 810 votes. Status: AVAILABLE Last checked: 5 Minutes ago! eBook includes PDF, ePub and Kindle version In order to read or download the sierra club guide to the national parks of the ebook, you need to create a FREE account. ✔ Register a free 1 month Trial Account. ✔ Download as many books as you like (Personal use) ✔ Cancel the membership at any time if not satisfied. ✔ Join Over 80000 Happy Readers the sierra club guide to the national parks of the These brochures can be the beginning of your storybook adventure. From Fleetwood Class A to Fleetwood Class C, browse our archive of high-end motorhomes. We'll assume you're ok with this, but you can opt-out if you wish. This includes cookies for access to secure areas and CSRF security. Please note that Craft’s default cookies do not collect any personal or sensitive information. Craft's default cookies do not collect IP addresses.That is done via the PHP session cookie. Craft names that cookie “CraftSessionId” by default, but it can be renamed via the phpSessionId config setting. This cookie will expire as soon as the session expires.The cookie only stores information necessary to maintain a secure, authenticated session and will only exist for as long as the user is authenticated in Craft.The intention is to display ads that are relevant and engaging for the individual user and thereby more valuable for publishers and third party advertisers. If the smoke detector fails to operate with new batteries, The slide-out room is designed to provide additional living There are two types of slide-outs available as standard or A detailed operat- Read all instructions for these systems Damage can occur to. Have been having intermittent issues with the bedroom slide out not retracting. Causes some anxiety, but so far nothing more. The owners manual mentions an ability to manually retract the slide out in the event of a failure. I have not been able to locate a manual retract mechanism for the slide out. Does anyone have any info on this? Thanks That might be how you would open and close it. FLEETWOOD Popup Trailer Owners Manual - 2007 Destiny Westlake Sea Pine Yuma. RENAULT CONSULT RVI Spare Operators Manual. Serial 6K1166536 RAYGO TOW 668 Service Manual, 1403 emission standards. 2017 Fleetwood Bounder 35K. Forklifts Built to Perform front fastening bra soft in Mind Toyota forklifts fuel delivery, the necessity from the ground up D DD E. 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RV Leveling Systems. Klf300 Bayou 4X2 Service Manual, Service Manual 320L, 2016 Polaris 600 Xc Sp Service Manual, 2016 Vulcan Fi Repair Manual, Manual Services Itw Gema Reload to refresh your session. Reload to refresh your session. Our library is the biggest of these that have literally hundreds of thousands of different products represented. I get my most wanted eBook Many thanks If there is a survey it only takes 5 minutes, try any survey which works for you. It has four slides. The passenger side bedroom slide stopped working (fortunately in the closed position) and I can't find the motor or the mechanism. The other three work fine. Sometime the motor is located under a false bottom of the bed. It may be a sheared pin. https://www.gvshaw.com/images/98-honda-civic-repair-manual-download.pdf If you find the board there is a 20 amp(I think) fuse. The fuse is not shown on the RV diagrams because it is part of the board.I just wish I could find the motor!!This issue is caused by the lack a shaft sleeve in the soft mettle casting. A good machine shop can repair that problem in many cases. The motor is mounted to drive a shaft with a rack and pinion on each end of the shaft if that is the type of mechanism you have. One end of that shaft is like a hex nut that can be turned manually with a socket wrench. As I remember the motor is less than 4” in diameter and about 8-9” long, so it could be hidden in the toe kick under a cabinet or accessible under a plate in the ceiling of the bin below the slide.I was asked did I want the same motor or the newer more powerful one. Go figure they didn’t know there was a problem of underpowered drive motors. Unfortunately, with the slide 'in', I can't get the drawers out, and I am reluctant to rip the toe kick off - although it may come to that.Unfortunately, with the slide 'in', I can't get the drawers out, and I am reluctant to rip the toe kick off - although it may come to that.Must of been cobwebs in the motor. There may some binding in the slide and a new motor is strong enough to work when new but the strain is too much over the long haul. Might be worth looking into.Since your slide is in, you'll need to get 3 feet into bay! Please let us know what you discover.The slide motors will have less voltage available when the engine is off than when it is running. With engine off the motors will draw more current and run hotter. Many manufacturers recommend extending and retracting slides with engine running. Jacks also when engine running.Same, when I had the 2007 WB 40 Tour. My 2011 Allegro Bus, was wired so that I could not, per Tiffin it's a safety issue. My SO, has a Phaethon 40 and she can not run engine and run slides or Jacks! On my WB 40. On mine as long as brake is set, I can leave engine running and operate slide outs. I have to turn key to on, before slides are operational. My only wish, is that I had a relay, that would prevent me from disconnecting brake with slides out. If I'm on Jacks, I can't turn off brakes. I mostly use my Air leveling.My first slide out was in 1997, for 30 years prior to that, I had no slides. Must say, life was simpler. The access to the slide motor is, in fact, behind a board below the bedroom drawers. It was not much fun getting to it. The motor is getting power, but not responding at all. Funny thing, I was just commenting how well all the slides were working. There was no indication of a problem - it just stopped. Usually, if electric motors are dying, they do so gradually.The second was about 3 years ago, when a gigantic storm blew one of the slides out of alignment, and when I brought it back in, the chassis of the motor itself cracked.I was getting power to the motor, but only 4 volts, it seems. I needed a new controller board. Less than a new motor now Lippert owns Power Gear.I was getting power to the motor, but only 4 volts, it seems. I needed a new controller board. Less than a new motor now Lippert owns Power Gear.This is a picture of a slide control board - where the white connector (in this case) connects to the board - very off ten there a crack in the solder around the pin(s) on the back side of the board. Do you know of a person that repairs electronic boards? The direction is controlled by a combination of valves. Look for any objects that don’t belong there. Using caution not to cut yourself, run your fingers around the inner and outer seals, between the slide and the RVs wall opening, top and sides.It could be the slide out is out of adjustment and needs re-aligned. Make sure you have the the proper crank handle. If you don’t have a manual, contact the RV manufacture or slide out component manufacturer for that information. If that is not possible then it would be worth the expense to have an RV tech show you how to do it. And you should know how before you need to do it. The direction is controlled by a combination of valves. Look for any objects that don’t belong there. Using caution not to cut yourself, run your fingers around the inner and outer seals, between the slide and the RVs wall opening, top and sides.It happened to us! Always listen for unusual noise and watch for erratic movement whenever you operate your slide outs. It could be the slide out is out of adjustment and needs re-aligned. Make sure you have the the proper crank handle. If you don’t have a manual, contact the RV manufacture or slide out component manufacturer for that information. And you should know how before you need to do it. The slide will slide in but will not slide out by the electric motor. I can slide it out manually with no problem. Could this be a bad switch? Thanks If your slideout is hydraulic it could also be the solenoid valve. If we email you some pictures of the gear box, can you ID the manufacture. It is a rack and pinion drive. Rushmore, slides move out when going down the road. Have tried numerous things. Out of ideas. Has a full slide on driver side. Slide worked perfectly Thu while loading. Arrived at dest Thu pm and remote did not engage slide. Did engage jacks. Was told to use manual system by turning switch to manual and hand cranking slide out. Worked smoothly til about half way out and something snapped.Need to travel tomorrow. Any suggestions. Tks. The trailer itself is level but one slide out is not level. How do I correct this. Is there something I need to adjust to correct this? It is very noisy when it slides in or out. Any suggestions? Maybe metal. Go outside and listen. Get under the slide (be carful while the slide is in operation) and listen. If you are able to pinpoint the cause you will know what needs to be repaired and whether or not you can do the job yourself. The keyword their is some, the manual for my slide-outs specifically say not to lubricate. Can still hear motor run A good RV repair shop should be able to get parts or maybe repair your broken parts. Here’s a link to a directory of RV parts salvage companies that may be able to supply the parts you need. Other that the oil leaking it works great.When I move the slideout in it makes no unusual noises. However, when moved it out it clunks a bit. I have liberaly lubricated it. What do you think is wrong with the slidout system? Your bets chance of finding out what’s wrong is to try and isolate where the clunks are coming from. Have someone operate the slide while you listen. Go outside to listen if you hear the clunks better. The slide goes out fine, but when I bring it in, the slide continues to come in even after I let go of the switch. It does not happen every time. Loose wire, bad switch, something else? Only a systematic diagnostic process will find the source of the problem. I’m trying to get the bedroom slide motor and drive box out can’t find away to get at motor end.I have not let out the three slides for two years. I hit the switch, I hear the motor but the slides do not come out. Will the pump work even if the battery is low but the pump runs? Have to jockey with it to get it back in straight. Any ideas? Slide comes in but after sitting a while the bottom slides back out. Any thoughts on what problem might be? It’s a tract system with gears. It has up and down adjustments underneath that would raise and lower the back side of the slideout. Question I have is what supports the inside edge as the slide moves in over the trailer floor. It only makes a “click” noise at the “Trombetta”, and a click is heard somewhere back around the refrigerator somewhere. It will run the motor if the “In” button is pressed, but will not run the motor if the “Out” button is pressed, except once every hundred or so clicks. Any other suggestions? Was bringing in the main living room slide yesterday, slide came in a little bit, but began jerking and wouldn’t move inwards anymore. It goes out without any problem, yet won’t come in without jerking and stopping at a certain point. Suppose to leave for Nascar races in few days. HELP! Karen The Hudralic pump is hard to get to and I don’t know how much oil is supposed to be in the pump but it is about half full. The adjustment on the valves, how do you do this and what happens if you do something wrong, I would assume that the pump would only put out so much pressure. I re4placed a portion of the floor but I made sure that the splice was inside the metal slide part at the bottom. Any input is appreciated. Thyanks Mel One of them will not seal all the way and leaves quit a big gap. We live in it in snow country and have a Local Rv Repair guy comming to look at it but he does not know much about the slide outs. Could it be out of ajustment and if that might be the problem how can it be ajusted. If so, you may have a leak in a hydraulic hose or valve. In the past, and maybe still today, RVs with hydraulic slide outs came with slide out bars that are inserted between the RV wall and the flange on the slide out. They are primarily used while traveling to prevent the slide outs from extending while on the road but may be used anytime. There are a handful of different slide out systems so it’s impossible to give you specific advice even if I was an expert, which I am not. My advice it to hire an RV tech who does know about slide outs. You may also want to contact the manufacturer for advice if possible. It is rack and pinion. When it is moved to the out position the bottom of the slideout stops but the top continues to move. When I move it in the bottom moves first and I have to literally pull on the top before it will move on it’s own. It has me very puzzled. Any idea’s would be welcomed. It was working fine about 45 minutes before we tried to open it again. Any help would be great!! Two possibilities to look for. You really need to get this fixed before the problem gets worse. A repair that could be simple and relatively cheap could turn into a several thousand dollar problem if left to get worse. It attempts to move, but appears to hang on the opposite side of the slide from the hydraulic piston. It extended without a problem when I arrived on Monday. Any suggestions. A friend in the park did call a tech and he asked me to close the valves (4) and open them one at a time and see if that would allow the slides to retract, I followed his advice and it allowed me to retract the two opposing living room slides, but didn’t help with the dinning room slide. I have reservations about slides from maintenance viewpoint. However, it occurred to me that if someone would make a narrower RV, I could feel more comfortable driving it. And use slides to give back space. Any chances of such an RV? There are a few who never really get used to it but most do and it doesn’t take all that long. Practicing turning and backing in a large empty lot helps a lot. There are also RV driving schools and the people who have attended say they’re a great confidence builder. There is a trend to smaller lighter towables but adding slideouts to them would defeat any weight saved by making them smaller. No help from fletwood or dealer in Medford, OR. We have put about 5000 miles on it. We are finally getting the electical system fixed with the new and improved regulator that fleetwood changed to in ’07 because the ones that was installed were defected, and caused us to have to replace all six batteries. Fleetwood sent one of the old type regulators to the repair shop and of course it died also. Now we are having trouble with the large sideout. Our RV has been in the shop all summer and is still there in November. There is no help from Fleetwood. The drivers side window has separated. I got the answer, sorry we do not honor former Fleetwood manufactrer warrantees I know there is a Federal Lemon law for RV’s, that I am going to look into. I am not the only one out there that has concerns. The first thing that failed were the brakes, not installed properly. It was a scarry ride. One would think the company who bought out Fleetwood and kept the Fleetwood name would be happy to help former customers. Can you explain in more specifics what your trouble is. The culprit has always been leaking then the reservoir runs dry (without you knowing) and getting air in the lines. Plus, one time a solenoid blew apart and had to limp in 300 miles to a dealer. HWH, the company who built the system have so many problems with their junk you have to get on a 2 week waiting list just to get a call back for tech support. Winnebago would be smart to use another sub-contractor for their hydraulics, one who can make a good product that will not break down every time you use the coach. These problems reflect on Winnebago who builds an outstanding coach. Fuse is ok, in panel in front drivers side. How can I bring it in manually need pics. 2006 tiffin phaeton. Thanks Is this seal thing true? There are many different slide mechanisms and they all operate somewhat differently. It’s not possible for me to give you specific advice. Here is some basic advise. If so, and it’s still not working right, take it back and make them fix it. Asking other owners is the best way to get answers. Most likely at least a few other owners have had the same problem and can offer specific advice. If you are still under warranty, ask your insurance company’s assistance. For sure they know the answers. Or, if you want to do it your way, join RV communities (such as forestriverforum) and ask the experts. Slideouts have a rubber gasket that acts kind of like a squeegee to keep the slide mostly weather sealed as it moves in and out. My guess is that gasket is what you are hearing. But to be sure you should check with your trusted RV tech. It is a 2008 Keystone Hornet. We can get absolutely NO help from CAMPING WORLD where we purchased it from, and was told to either replace or repack the seal. Do you think that this is the way to go with the repair. It was initially set up long term for about 5 years, without the slides being moved in or out. We have just recently started moving it from place to place and not we have this problem. Thank you so much for taking the time to get back to me. If the leak is a slow leak then you may want to give the seal a little time to soften up and re-seal. Operate the slide several times over a few days and see if it is still leaking. I’m not an expert on hydraulics but I what think haveing the ram repaired will be cheaper than purchasing a new one but in a throw-a-way world I may wrong. So get a price for both. If the leak is bad enough that it drains your reservoir over a short period of time I would add some power steering or automatic transmission stop leak to refill the reservoir. You can get just the stop leak or you can get the hydraulic fluid with the stop leak as an additive. Which you use would be determined by how low the reservoir is. If it half full the add the fluid with additive. If the reservoir just needs a top-off then just add the stop leak. Again this is not advise. I’m only telling you what I would do. If you try it let me know if it did or did not work. Be sure to tell him the camper slide has not been operated for several years. We just bought a new 27ft travel trailer, however the seller just put a new battery in it. The slide out works great, however nothing else will work on the battery. We changed the fuses and that did not work. Please help Also: any suggestions to troubleshoot why it won’t operate. Already checked fuses. Everything else (electrical) works fine.Our DC disconnect switch is located near our water hookup area on our camper. We have to insert an orange plastic key to turn it on. This will help run some of the lights and the ignitor if u have a fridge that runs off LP. Damaged both sides under the wheel wells. Now there the electric button that runs on both electricity snd battery does not work. We can only open manually. Any suggestions on where to start to repair? It is the easiest to check and almost always the problem. Next, check to see if you have power the the switch. If you don’t have power to the switch then there is a break in the wire from the fuse to the switch. If you do have power the check for power to the motor. If you don’t have power to the motor then there is a break in the wire from the switch to the motor. If you have power to the motor but the motor doesn’t run then it is an issue with the motor. One of the sliders in the back bedrooms wont come out and had to be hand cranked out. Does anyone have an idea how we can fix this The slide out went out fine but won’t come back in. I here the motor working but it won’t move (it moved about a foot in really slow but won’t move anymore. It is a hydraulic system. Any ideas how to get the slide back in? I know an RVer who got caught in the middle of nowhere with a slide that didn’t want to go back in. He is a handyman type so it wasn’t a big deal for him but I don’t know if I would want to do that. We could push it in manually but we were afraid it would just slide back out while driving so we had to leave it behind. Is there a belt or something that could have broke. It wouldn’t move at all. Help! The living room slide with the fridge etc.I check all my fuses and breakers and all are good. I was stymied so I pulled a large belly plate (not sure if that is the right terminology) and removed all the insulation to reveal the mechanical racks. Located the square knob and was able to use a wrench to open my living room slide so I could use the RV while parked at my ranch in a large barn I had built for it. I suspect I will need to replace what looks like a gear box on the living room slide because oil seems to be leaking in that area. I also suspect since all my fuses and breakers are OK, that I’m getting low voltage out of the battery. I’ll pull the battery before cold weather hits and test it. Not much room for me to work there. At first I was a tad intimidated. I didn’t get a manual with my Sunnybrook and just started taking things apart.I will use slide floor n outer wall in place. How do I do this? Please help. Ours seem to be stuck. Also does humidity affect it? Meaning one side was staying further out than the other. We put the slide back out and tried again and hydraulic fluid started leaking from underneath the corner that was dragging. We were able to finally get the slide all the way in evenly and the leak stopped. What do you think could be going on. I sure hope we can resolve it ourself and not bring it in for repair;( Once you have that fixed you can try to move the slide. If it works properly then all is well. Otherwise, diagnose and repair. My bet is that once the leak is fixed the slide will work properly. It has been parked and not used since Oct. 2014. Battery has been unhooked and it is winterized. I have two questions. Does the battery have to be hooked back up to put the slide out or will it go out by just plugging up the electricity. Also, I do not plan to put any water in the RV until there is no chance of freezing weather. Will it harm the water heater by plugging it in. The heating element rod has been removed. Thanks! With no water in the heater tank you could damage the tank or the electric element if you turn the water heater on. Slide creeps out about an inch after closing. Is this due to a small hydraulic fluid leak.?? Any adjustment I can make? Lately, my slide out does not want to operate when it is all the way in. If I take the manual crank and move it a little then it goes out and in smoothly with no problems. I thought I remembered reading that they should not be lubricated but thought a little grease on the gears at the start might help. Let me know what you think. Thanks My slideouts are mechanical rather than hydraulic and there is a clutch on the motor. You can hear it working at the end of the slide travel before you release the switch. I have experienced the same thing you describe and have needed to use the manual crank on occasion. I believe the problem is caused by a weak clutch but I have not tried to fix it since the problem happens infrequently. I think it happens when the trailer frame is tweaked a little and the clutch is too weak to overcome it. That’s just my speculation, mind you, but the clutch is the first thing I would work on. My manual advises against using grease and I have never felt the need. They are not high-speed precision gears after all. As a result one side is out about 2 inches at the bottom. Comes in okay but the opposite bottom side is out by about 2 inches. It looks like I can drop the nylon gears holding assembly on both tracks and then push out bottom of slide. Is this the right fix? It still wouldn’t move.They do go bad. If the switch checks okay then I’m as stumped as you are. Time to double check all fuses and connections. My concearn is how to get them back in if my Pump motor fails or my punp. Is there a manual crank for this. I cannot find anywhere where to use a crank and I don’t know if the bedroon slide is Hydraulic or not. Need help. You may find a name plate on the hydraulic pump and with the name be able to contact them directly or find info on the web. We are on our first trip. I have been using the slide out in my drive way getting ready for the trip and everything worked great. Got to the camp site and the slide out didn’t work. I checked the fuses in breaker box and the battery. Everything checked out. I checked the switch but wasn’t sure how to determine if switch was working properly.
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